Thursday, August 18, 2011

Verona, Venice, and a Very Hard Good-bye


          As I write this it is officially midnight on Wednesday night, making it Thursday, August 18, on this, my last week in Italy.  That means that tomorrow, on Friday, August 19, I will be leaving Gargnano on a bus headed to Brescia, then a train headed to Milan, then a train headed to Zurich, Switzerland with Maria and Alvaro, wait about ten hours for our plane (I'm not even talking about the actual flight yet... just waiting at the airport), then finally, we'll board our ten-hour plane from Zurich to Atlanta.  It's going to take us about a full day and a half to get from where we are in Gargnano back to Atlanta, then once we get to Atlanta we'll all eventually head back to school in Milledgeville.

          I've been having the most amazing time here in Gargnano!  As I talked about in my last post, I have classmates and new friends from all over the world, and our professors are so friendly and they've actually become our good friends as well.  The environment of the classes and program here in Gargnano is definitely my favorite out of all of the ones we've participated in (Siena, Milan and Gargnano) because here it's nothing short of full immersion - we're speaking Italian all the time (I've actually had a few moments where I couldn't remember the English word or expression for what I was saying in Italian).  Also, after our classes in Siena and Milan got out we would all part ways, but here in Gargnano we're living with each other and enjoying all of our meals together.  There's really not an opportunity to do anything else other than speak Italian, mingle with friends who love this language and culture as much as I do, and explore this beautiful town and its shops, beaches, and even a limonaio - that's the place where they grow lemons to make delicious things like limoncello - we got to take a tour of one this week and sample some as well!

          On Friday, August 12, I took a trip with the rest of the students and professors to Verona, Italy, which is a northern Italian town that a certain British playwright made famous with his story about those two star-crossed lovers :)  While we there we got to go to la casa di Giulietta, saw the balcony, and at night we all met up at the Arena di Verona, where we saw an opera by the name of Nabucco that we had been learning about in our culture class the week before.  I was obsessing about recharging my camera battery for at least a day or two before we left, and I finally charged it the night before... however, I failed to take the battery out of the charger and put it into my camera before we left.  Luckily, my friends took some pictures and gave them to me :)
Seeing Verona from a bird's-eye-view.  I'm kind of obsessed with my hair in this picture (I'm on the left), natural highlights I didn't even know I had! :)

          Maria and I absolutely wanted to go to Venice while we were here in northern Italy, so this past weekend we decided to do just that!  It was only about a one-hour bus trip from Gargnano to Brescia and then a two-hour train ride from Brescia to Venice.  After we exited the train station we made our way to our hotel, of course while stopping to ask for directions a few times along the way.  We noticed that absolutely no one was speaking to us in English anymore when we stopped to talk to people or ask them for directions!  When we first got to Italy almost every Italian we came in contact with would switch to English when we would talk, since I'm sure they could tell we weren't from Italy, but now - even if they can still tell we're not native Italians - we must be talking with more fluency and confidence than before, since no one feels like they have to use the universal traveling language :) Win!

          You know that feeling when you arrive somewhere, look around you, and everything seems so beautiful and unreal that you feel fully convinced that you're off asleep somewhere and dreaming the whole thing?  Maybe, but only if you've been to Venice, Italy :)  At one point Maria was fully convinced that she was off in a coma somewhere, because none of the scenery around her seemed like it could possibly be real.  But it was!  We’ve been in Italy for two and a half months already, but no place felt more like the Italy you dream about than Venice.  The area of the city when we got off the train from Brescia just looked like any other city in the world, but after we took the ten-minute train ride across the bridge and got off, we finally saw the Venice we had always seen in pictures and movies for as long as we can remember.  Gondolas, gondolas, and more gondolas!  The doors of this train station led right out to Piazzale Roma, where it's impossible to miss the canals and gondolas galore :)  When I had my first gondola sighting (pictured below!), I literally gasped, yelled "GONDOLAS!", whipped out my camera and ran over to the edge of the canal to snap a picture :)


My first gondola sighting!

Me in front of the canal outside of Piazzale Roma in Venice

I took this picture in Venice (again, canal by Piazzale Roma) and my incredibly talented sister  Maddie drew the below picture based on this one!

Maddie's rendering of Venice :)


          In case I haven't mentioned, this week (not this coming one, but the week that we're in right now) is the first week of classes for my university in Milledgeville.  But, obviously, some prior engagements kept Maria, Alvaro, Haley and I from attending class there for the first week, and this was all Maria and I could think and talk about while we were walking over Venetian bridges and having lunch alongside a canal, gondolas passing by every few minutes.  It was the day before school started at GCSU, and here we were halfway around the world in Venice, Italy.  "Those suckers we call friends are in Milledgeville right now!" Maria would say :)
This was where we ate lunch.  Unreal!

There is no place in the entire world like Venice...

          What's nice about Venice and what makes it so unique is that non è qualsiasi monumento (the Italian way to say "it isn't any monument" appeared in my head before the English way as I was typing just now...) that makes Venice what it is and what it's famous for, but just the simplicity and beauty and history around you.  Granted, there is the big Piazza di San Marco, where there are churches and towers and a big square full of tourists, but I enjoyed just walking through the quainter parts of the city and seeing the canals, old buildings and boats more.  Plus, believe it or not, it was less touristy and less crowded around these parts of town.  I never got over how cool it was to constantly turn my head and see water passing through two buildings, where in every other city in the world there would have been a road (ci sarebbe stata una strada).  I didn't see a single car in the entirety of Venice; only boats, gondolas, and people on foot :)  Che bella!


          I can't believe my time in Italy is almost over.  I am ready to be home (three months is a long time to spend away from home in any circumstance, especially when it's your first time out of the country!), but I can't get used to the fact that I will now begin to refer to my Italy trip and experiences here in the past tense.  I have been planning for this trip my entire first two years of college, and now it's almost over.  I realized the other day that I have really never given a single thought as to what I will do or what will happen in my life on and after August 21, at least for the rest of my college years.  For at least the last three months I haven't been able to see past August 20.  It's been Italy Italy Italy on my mind all the time, but what about after Italy?  I have absolutely no idea.  I also wanted to note how incredibly blessed I feel to be here.  The way that the program worked out, how we were able to participate in three Italian language programs here without any of them overlapping, the fact that I go to a school that offers an amazing opportunity like this (and one that offers Italian in the first place, too!), the fact that this is the first year that GCSU has offered 12 credits through the Italian study abroad program invece di (instead of) the 9 it offered every year before me, and how participating in this program gave me the 24 credits I need for the graduate program I’ve been looking at… and the fact that I was somehow given a week off from all of my intensive schooling here in which I was able to head south and meet my recently-found relatives in Sicily … it's just all so amazing and worked out way too perfectly for any of it to be a coincidence :)

          Also, the program in Gargnano in particular (I just can't stop singing the praises of this town and our wonderful professors and directors!), is particularly special to me because none of the professors, directors or guest speakers actually live here in Gargnano, they're all just staying here for three weeks like us.  I know they're being paid to be here, but I also assume they would only leave their family and friends behind wherever they live (and work during the month of August, when just about every other Italian is on vacation) if they truly, geniunely care about us and wanted to help us develop and expand our Italian language proficiency.  That just means so much to me :)

          The one person I need to thank the most for my being able to be here, however is my mother.  She didn’t have to let me come here.  She could have said, “No, it doesn’t technically help with your major,” or “No, it costs too much.”  But she didn’t.  She never said any of that.  Of course, it cost money – I received various types of scholarships, though; tuition and a teacher assistantship from GCSU, borse di studi [scholarships] from the universities here in Italy, etc. – plus I managed to save up over $1,500 on my own :)  And no, it doesn’t exactly match up with my program of study as a French major.  By all definition, with that as my major I probably should have been studying French somewhere this summer.  But my mom knew that I wouldn’t have been able to get to where I want and need to be with Italian without traveling here and enrolling in this program, and it means the world to me that she not only knew how important this opportunity was for me, but that it was important to her too :)  I love you Mommy!  Thank you so much.  I am forever grateful <3

          Making the decision to start taking Italian my freshman year of college was one of the best decisions I've ever made.  It was a pretty late one too; I emailed our Italian professor Tony two weeks before school started that year and asked if he could make a last-minute seat in his class for me.  If I hadn't done so, I literally wouldn't be where I am today, physically, mentally, linguistically, etc.  After I return to the United States from my study abroad experience, I will have 24 Italian credits under my belt, which, as I've mentioned before, is just the right amount required to enroll in the graduate program I'm looking at for a Masters in Italian, and plenty enough to earn teacher certification as well, which is my ultimate goal :)  When I first started taking Italian freshman year, and even up until last December or so, I saw the classes as something I had always wanted to take but didn't anticipate that they would turn into the center of my focus as a student and affect my career choice as much as they have.  But I guess that's to be expected of someone who's always been a language buff (I studied both French and Spanish in high school; they were always my favorite subjects) and who also comes from a family bursting at the seams with Italian people and culture.  Of course, one day, I would learn and become proficient in Italian.  It just makes sense :)

          A volte 
(there goes the Italian again, popping into my head before the English translation "Sometimes"...) I have fooled myself into thinking that this will be my last Italian class for a while, last real exposure to the language for a while, and that once I return to the United States my knowledge will diminish a causa del fatto che (because of the fact that) I will not be exposed to the language there as much there as I am here.  Whenever I begin to think in that way, I quickly remind myself that the only way I would ever be able to “lose” my Italian is if I, Chloe Carpenter, let myself do so.  Who says that just because I won’t be taking any more undergraduate Italian classes for credit that I have to stop learning and being exposed to the language?  (The fact that I’ve taken all the Italian language classes possible for an undergraduate also blows my mind; I’m so proud of myself and so incredibly grateful to have had the opportunity :
)
         
          When I really think about it, I realize that I have so many resources at my disposal to keep me maintaining the language as a big part of my life when I get back.  Though I’ve taken all of GCSU’s Italian classes for credit already, there’s nothing stopping me from going back and sitting in on one of the classes each semester in order to keep myself practicing; I’ll even take the tests again, even if not for a grade!  I’m also going to be a French and Italian tutor in the Foreign Language Lab starting this semester, where I will undoubtedly use both languages often.  I have two friends at GCSU who are taking Italian this semester and both of them want my help with the class, and another who wants me to teach her enough Italian outside of class so that she can try and get into Italian 2 next semester.  Since I have been in Italy I have also become the proud owner of several books and magazines in Italian, an Italian-French dictionary, as well as an actual dictionary in Italian (already had two Italian-English dictionaries :P), so I will definitely be making time as often as possible to read and study them, as well as watch movies and TV episodes in Italian online, and even just read straight out of my Italian dictionary as if it were a book (come se fosse un libro).  Why would I watch, read, or write in English when I could do it in another language? :)  It’s going to be strange to go back to using English all the time and I’m sad to know that the days of hearing only Italian being spoken outside my window and on the street will soon be over, but that certainly doesn't mean that when I return home my exposure to Italian has to stop :)

          I’ve also wondered if sitting in more French classes than Italian ones for the next couple of years would impede my knowledge of Italian at all, but I think I have a strong enough grasp of the Italian language now that exposure to another won't hinder it.  The two languages are very similar, which can confuse some people when studying them together, but in my experience it’s always helped me rather than hurt me, which I am very thankful for.  Also, whatever I do in French from now on, as far as homework assignments and translations go, I will also do in Italian.  There are plenty of people that know three languages very well if not fluently; that’s been the case for a good number of students here in Gargnano and several foreign language teachers and professors I’ve had throughout my life.  I don’t think I would be wrong in saying that most people who know two languages usually know a third pretty well too, and it’s so exciting to know that I am on my way to being one of those people :)

          There were several times throughout my sophomore year of college when I was seriously considering transferring to a school that had Italian as a major course of study, but after a long period of prayer and self-discovery, it’s been made evident to me that in my case, it isn’t absolutely necessary that I sit in a classroom in order to keep Italian with me and learn more; my passion for the language will help me do that just fine.  (When it comes to French I definitely think I need the classes, because although I love that language as well, my passion for it isn’t as grand as it is for Italian.)  After months of experience in Italy, with the language, and with tanti cugini e amici che parlano l’italiano (several cousins and friends who speak Italian) in Italy and Sicily that I will of course continue to keep in contact with, it will pretty much be impossible for me to not keep Italian in my life :)  It’s not that I even actually think my knowledge of the language would be in jeopardy when I return home, I’m just obsessed with doing everything possible to reach my fullest potential in both Italian and French! :)

          "Whether you think you can or think you can’t, you’re right."  This is one of my favorite quotes and it’s really never been truer to me than it is now.  When I arrived in Italy two and a half months ago, I was confident that I knew enough of the language to get by, maybe a little more.  But I wouldn't have called myself fluent at that time, because I didn't understand every single thing that was said by Italian speakers and on occasion also had some difficulty finding words myself, since my vocabulary wasn’t as broad then.  Now, however, after eleven weeks of classes, hundreds more Italian conversations experienced (and fully understood!) both those from afar and those in which I took part, hundreds more opportunities to speak and practice, and hundreds more words learned, I now believe that at this point in time I can call myself an Italian speaker :)  I may not know every single word there is, but do I really know every single word in English?  It’s all about being able to follow and understand completely what’s going on and play an active role in conversations, and that’s what I can do :)

          After dinner last night (Wednesday, August 17), I stayed long after the rest of the students had gotten up from the table in order to stay and chat with the two guest speakers that are here in Gargnano for our program this week, along with the husband and young children of one of them.  I thought about following the others and getting up when I was finished eating, but with an Italian conversation going on, how was I supposed to pull myself away?  It occurred to me that I would not be getting a whole lot of opportunities like this, if any, starting Saturday, so I seized the day and chatted with them for about half an hour.  The kids asked me to clear up some questions they had about the English language and if their teacher was saying the right word and pronunciation for certain words (“a book” with a short a sound versus “a book” with a long a sound), and when the adults asked me what had made me want to study Italian, I told them how much I've always loved languages and launched into the story of how my great-grandfather came to America from Sicily, how I still have family there, that I went there to visit them last month and also what else I've done and where else I’ve been in Italy the last two and a half months.  They told me that by now I probably know Italy better than they do, and that they were very impressed with how well I speak their language.  Compliments like that never fail to make me smile or boost my level of confidence :)

          I am now on my way to our final conferenza of the program, where the guest speakers lecture on a cultural topic they are proficient in, such as art, theatre, music, history, etc., and then our final dinner as a family, then a going-away festa!  After all of this I will finally get my suitcases together tonight in order to be out of my room by 9am tomorrow morning for our final class/get-together, after which we will have our last lunch and then be on our way back to America via Brescia, Milan, and Zurich.  Don't think this is my last blog entry though, because I'm sure I will still have more experiences to recount, more musings to share, and I get to readjust myself to the American lifestyle, culture and language pretty soon after almost three months of being away from it.  That should be fun :)  Looking forward to it and I hope you are too!  Ciao :)

Sunday, August 7, 2011

Gargnano!

          Finalmente, ho trovato il tempo per scrivere un altro post!  (Finally, I have found the time to write another post!)  It's been a long time since my last one, which was about the last half of the week I spent in Sicily (the first week of July), and since then I have spent three weeks in the city of Milan taking classes, meeting people, and seeing the sights there, and arrived in the town of Gargnano on Lago di Garda, which is about 1.5-2 hours away from Milan, on Monday, August 1.

          Let me just say that after living in the Tuscany region for the entire month of June, taking classes in Siena and taking weekend trips to nearby Cinque Terre, Florence, Rome, San Gimignano, Assisi, Perugia and Pisa, AND after spending ten glorious days in the heart of the Mediterranean with my cousins and family in Sicily, any place that I would go to after that would surely have some tough competition for my affection.  That is the nicest way to explain why I can only describe Milan as a bit of a disappointment (not Lago di Garda though - I'll get to that later).  I'm glad I got the opportunity to go to Milan, but the classes there didn't seem to have any sort of structure or lesson plan, and it wasn't until after we had all taken our placement test that the professors realized that everybody had a different competency and background with the Italian language and that there should probably be more than just two levels.

          Maria and I also had an unfortuantely unpleasant encounter with one of the employees in the university residence who, when we had accidentally left one morning with our key still in our room (ONE time), was downright rude and lectured and yelled at us like we were children.  I had never experienced service like that before, since every other RA or landlord I have ever come across has always been willing to let me into my room when I needed them to, since that is, in fact, their JOB.  For the record, this guy wasn't actually Italian, so don't think I'm talking bad about gli italiani! :)

          Like I mentioned in my last post, I spent my first two days in Milan with my cousin Luca who lives there.  He picked me up from the airport when I arrived there from Sicily and took me to two of the city's biggest sights, the Duomo and the Galleria.  I didn't get to see a whole lot of him for the remainder of the time I was there, since he was working a LOT, but he and his girlfriend Azzurra took me to see the movie Captain America one night, which was great because it was entirely in Italian and I understood just about all of it! :)

          My favorite day/night during my time in Milan was definitely when two of my friends from America, Taylor and Steffi, came to visit.  The two of them spent a couple of weeks traveling around Italy this summer, and happened to stop in Milan during my stay there.  I met up with them on my first Friday in Milan (July 15) after I got out of class.  We took some pictures in front of the Duomo and then headed over to Castello Sforzesco, another touristy location.  It was nice going to these places with tourists, since I had pretty much turned into a Milan resident myself and hadn't gotten the time to do much else other than go about my daily business like the rest of the Milanese people.  When I went to Florence with some friends for the weekend and spent time with my friend Courtney who was studying there, she mentioned how she was glad to have friends come to the city so she could have an excuse - and find time! - to visit all of the touristy places that she hadn't yet gotten to see.  This was exactly how I felt when Steffi and Taylor came to Milan!


                                       Taylor, me and Steffi in front of the Milan Duomo


          We spent the day poking around the city and once it got dark, headed out to experience Milan nightlife.  We met two Turkish students from one of the many universities in Milan who told us about a place called Le Colonne which was a popular place for college-age students to hang out.  We accompanied them (Ezgi and Mehmet) to Le Colonne and there we met new friends from Italy, England, and fellow Americans from New York and New Jersey!  The Italian guys lived there in Milan (though one of them was actually from Sicily, so we bonded over that!), the British guys were there on vacation, and the American guys were architecture grad students who were there studying for a week, and who would then go to Siena to spend a month taking classes there.  Since I myself had just spent a month there, I told them all about the city and gave them recommendations on what to do and see while they're there.

          The Americans, like I mentioned, were from New York and New Jersey so that was yet another thing that we bonded over.  Though I haven't lived in either of those places, I have family in both states and in nearby Connecticut and Massachusetts, have taken many trips up there, and consider the northeast my favorite area of the country.  Anyway, at one point one of the guys, Travis, told me that he was surprised when I told him that we were all from Atlanta because according to him, I looked and seemed like somebody from up north!  I was thrilled to hear that, especially from a northeasterner :)  We then talked about how easy it is to pick out the Americans here in Italy, even just walking past them and without them saying a word.  Travis then told me, "I've had a pretty good eye for figuring out who the Americans are up until now.  I actually never would have pegged you as an American.  I thought you were a native Italian until you told me otherwise."  I was even more thrilled to hear that :)


L-R: Travis (NY), Eric (NJ), Steffi (GA), Luigi (Sicily), me (GA), Diego (Italy), Matt (England), in front: Trevor (NY) and Josh (England)                                                           


          Since I've been in Italy I've had many people ask me where I'm from, and some who try to guess where I'm from before I tell them.  When I was on the bus from Palermo to Castellammare del Golfo in Sicily, I asked one of the other passengers, in Italian, how far we were from the stop for Castellammare, and after answering me, and probably assuming I was a tourist, the guy just up and asked me if I was from Germany.  He is actually one of three people to ask me if I was from there since I've been in Italy.  Another time, when Maria and I were eating at a restaurant in Milan, our waiter (also probably realizing that we were tourists) asked us where we were from, and after we told him the United States he said that he had thought we were from Spain.  Though Maria is Hispanic and speaks Spanish she isn't of Spanish descent (that is, from Spain) so we gathered that it was probably because our Italian professor back in the United States is himself a Spaniard, so we must have said something in Italian to the waiter with a Spanish pronunciation, the way our professor says it.  This waiter was also the third Italian person since I've been here to think I'm from Spain.  How does one person think I'm from Germany and the next think I'm from Spain?  It's crazy!

          The next Sunday (July 24) I went to Lago di Como for the day with my British friend Niamh (pronounced Neeve), which is the same lake on which George Clooney has a house :)  I have no idea what it looks like though so we may or may not have seen it.  We had a lot of fun poking around the town of Como and even got to go out on the lake in a paddleboat :)  During our last week in Milan, the week of July 25-29, I went with Maria, Haley and Niamh and the many other students from our class and other universities in Milan on free visits to the Pinacoteca di Brera, a very famous art gallery in Milan; il Cenacolo, otherwise known as Leonardo da Vinci's Last Supper, the famous depiction of the moment when Jesus announces that one of his twelve apostles would betray him; and also Leonardo's Codice Atlantico (Codex Atlanticus), which showcased over a thousand pages of Leonardo da Vinci's drawings and writings.  Pretty amazing stuff!  We weren't allowed to take pictures of them, though, otherwise I would put some up.  Here's one of me in the paddleboat on Lago di Como though! :)




          On Monday, August 1, Maria, Alvaro, Haley and I packed up and headed to Stazione Centrale, Milan's central train station, where we would be meeting our bus to Gargnano as well as several of our new classmates from all over the world!  Our new classmates and friends are from England, Ireland, Spain, Croatia, Bosnia, Serbia, Switzerland, Poland, Israel, India, China, Japan, Letonia, Mexico, Brazil, Argentina, and there may be some more places I'm forgetting.  Maria, Alvaro, Haley and I are the only students from America.  There is also another girl from Georgia - but the country of Georgia, not the state!  We bonded over the fact that we're both "Georgians" and we extended the invitation to each other to visit the other Georgia :)


Meeting the Gargnano group in Milan!
L-R: Natia (Georgia, the country); Valeria (Switzerland); Alvaro (Peru/USA); Maria & me (USA); Fumiko (Japan); Carlos (Mexico); Menakshi (India); Melisa (Serbia); and Merav (Israel).


          So not only is the town of Gargnano right on Lago di Garda, but so is the building where we are staying!  I shouldn't even call it a building, its name is Palazzo Feltrinelli and palazzo in Italian means "mansion." :)  Our classes are also held in the palazzo, so we just have to walk downstairs to get to class.  All of our meals during the week (which are absolutely delicious) are served to us outside, on the lake, with fabulous service! I'm living in what can only be described as a five-star hotel for three weeks, overlooking the lake, in a beautiful town in northern Italy!  It's absolutely incredible :)


                                                   Haley and I walking up to the palazzo


This is where we are served lunch and dinner every day!

          Our classes are great, and our teachers are so friendly!  In the mornings we have three and half hours of language classes, from 9 am - 12:50 with a twenty minute break at 11, then lunch, then a few hours of free time, then from 5:30-7:30 we have our culture classes, with a ten-minute break at 6:20.  I really like the culture class; it's very interesting and engaging!  It's a lot like the American culture class I took last semester at my home university, except it's all about Italian culture and entirely in Italian.  It makes me feel like I'm a real Italian student at a university in Italy just going to class :)

          On Saturday (August 6), we spent the day in the mountains of Gargnano (which are a part of the Alps), taking a car halfway up and then climbing up the rest of the mountain the old-fashioned way.  When we descended the mountain we had lunch with the mayor of Gargnano, who had greeted us all when we first stepped off the bus in his town last Monday, and after lunch, a local DJ named Davide, who we've become friends with, played the guitar for us while we all sang along to the songs in Italian, English and Spanish that he was playing :)

                                       View of Gargnano from the mountain we climbed


Me, Maria, Alvaro and Haley and the wine our teachers gave us after class.
Only in Italy :)

Me and il Sindaco di Gargnano (the Mayor of Gargnano), Gianfranco Scarpetta!

Monday, July 11, 2011

The Time of My Life

          Ciao, famiglia e amici!  I am currently in Milan, Italy; my plane to Bergamo from Palermo, Sicily got here Sunday afternoon.  It was sad leaving Sicily and my family, I didn't ever want to leave :(  The town of Castellammare del Golfo (which in English translates to "Sea-Fortress on the Gulf," or "Castle on the Sea of the Gulf,") is so beautiful, it brims with spectacular views from every vantage point and with both mountains and sea that each pick up right where the other left off.  I don't know how my great-grandfather ever left that town 80+ years ago.  It's been a week since my last blog post, so I've definitely got a lot to talk about!

                               View of Castellammare from Giacomo and Angela's house

          Apparently on Monday, July 4, America's Independence Day, it was raining and storming in my hometown of Alpharetta, GA, but here in Castellammare the weather was great and the water was beautiful!  I went to the beach with my cousins Monday morning, and since this is a town where everybody knows each other, we encountered one of my cousin Carla's teachers when we were swimming in the ocean.  He already knew who I was, since Carla had mentioned me in class, but for some reason he thought I spoke German, not English...?  Haha.  I met my cousin Bruno's friend Vittorio, who had been to New York for Model UN once or twice so he practiced his English with me.  Bruno is a huge basketball and NBA fan, and when the conversation turned to America and Atlanta he and Vittorio were telling me all these things about the Atlanta Hawks, the team members, the Philips Arena, etc. that I didn't know even about!  Bruno says his dream is to go to America and watch an NBA match live and couldn't believe it when I told him I had never been to one!

          After we got back from the beach and had lunch, I watched some American TV with Guido and Lara, which, as they told me, is the only kind of television most Italians like to watch.  Guido told me that he doesn't even like Italian actors, and Lara said that young Italians are fascinated by what they see on American sitcoms such as cheerleaders, football players and glee clubs, because those things don't exist in the schools in Italy.  While we were discussing the entertainment industry Sylvester Stallone's name came up, and I asked my cousins if they knew that Sly's father was not only from Sicily, but from Castellammare del Golfo.  They were convinced I was joking, but I Googled it for them to prove it :)  They were surprised because they didn't know anybody by the name of Stallone in town!

                                                                           Sea urchin!

          Later that afternoon we took the boat out again and I got to hold a sea urchin and even taste a little bit of the inside!  I don't much care for seafood anyway and it left a pretty weird aftertaste, but at least nowI have tried it :)  On the boat on the way back to the marina, Carla, Lara and I were sitting up at the front of the boat and at one point just broke out into song, singing both popular American and Italian songs (like American TV, American and English songs are even more popular in Italy than Italian ones).  This moment was probably one of my favorite memories of the trip thus far and it's a memory that I know is going to stay with me forever, because the lyrics to the songs we were singing seemed to fit my life at that moment exactly.  The songs we sang were Muse's "Starlight," which is a song that already reminds me of my family in Connecticut (shoutout to Dan, who introduced me to the song!) because of the lyrics "This ship is taking me far away, far away from the memories of the people who care if I live or die..."  and while singing Aerosmith's "I Don't Wanna Miss a Thing," I nearly burst into tears when we sang "Every moment spent with you is a moment I treasure..." together.  We had a blast singing Black-Eyed Peas' "The Time" ("I've... had... the time of my life...") as well :)

          Guido and I skyped with my mom and sister later that day, and once again I tried to get Guido to tell me what he would like from America, since my mom wants to send the family gifts for having me and showing me a wonderful time in Sicily, but he told her the same thing he told me earlier - that he doesn't want anything material, he just wants me to enjoy myself and that when he comes to America one day in the future, we can host him, and that will be his gift.  How heartwarming is that?  And earlier that day, Guido's father Gaspare told me that the only thing he wants is for me to remember them and my time spent here with love.  I miss everyone so much already, I can't even put it into words.  It's like staying with a host family in another country, but these people are actually my family, so it's even more special :) That night Guido took me to his favorite outdoor bar called Silos, where we sat on little cushions in the grass, each spoke the other's language, and took turns teaching each other words, phrases and slang in our native languages.

                                                                       Guido and me :)

          The next morning (Tuesday, July 5) Guido and I left early for Palermo, where his university is, because he is still in school - he had a project to work on with his classmates this week and next week he has a couple of exams.  It's crazy to me how different the start-and-finish dates are for Italian and American universities and schools; here they finish the year at the end of July and don't go back until the end of October, whereas I'm done at the beginning of May and return in the middle of August.  Anyways, I poked around Palermo during the day while Guido was working on his project with his classmates.  I saw some of the main attractions and landmarks but spent the bulk of the day shopping :)  The city was nice, but it was so incredibly hot!  I came back to Guido's apartment and took a nap while I waited for him to finish his work.  He and his roommate Giovanni returned after a couple of hours, and Guido made chicken for dinner, which was delicious!  All the food I've had here has been absolutely spectacular, my Zia Rosalia is a fantastic cook and everything tastes so authentically and classically Italian, much better than any restaurant in America that claims to be Italian could ever do!  At dinner I was asking Guido to recount certain Italian words in English that I had taught him in the days before, including "whipped cream," "traffic light," and "landlord." (In Italian, the words are panna, semaforo, and padrone di casa, respectively.)  Later that evening we watched Jersey Shore in Italian, which was hilarious :)

          Guido had classes early the next day (Wednesday, July 6), which meant I got to spend the morning sleeping in :)  I finally left the apartment at about 1:00 in the afternoon and walked around a little bit before Guido picked me up to take me to the bus stop, where I took the bus back to Castellammare.  I knew that my cousin Bruno wanted to take me out with his friends that night after I got back so I was going to get in touch with him to see what the plans were, but when my Zia Rosalia picked me up from the bus stop she told me that Bru had already called and told her when he would be by to pick me up :)  At dinner that night I tried arancine, which is a typical Sicilian dish made with either rice, beef and vegetables or rice, ham and cheese.  It was so yummy :)  Also that night at dinner, I realized I was not only following the conversations at the table much better as the week went on, but contributing more and more as well!  Bru picked me up after dinner, took me to meet his friends (he is younger than me, but a lot of his friends are around my age), and after hopping around town a bit we went to get some gelato by the marina.  Bru said that he couldn't believe that after only a year and a half of us being in contact with each other, here he was eating a gelato in his hometown in Sicily with his American cousin :)

                                                                         Bruno and me :)

          Thursday (July 7) was another day spent at the beach on the Sicilan shore, and Friday was another day spent on the family's boat on the beautiful Tyrrhenian Sea.  Thursday afternoon I went shopping with Lara and Carla and picked up some pretty souvenirs at a cute little place in town :)  We also walked down by the marina and hung out at Vogue Bar, where I saw all the waiters walking around with a t-shirt I had seen people around town wearing the past few days, and I had been wondering where I could get one.  On the shirt it says "I <3 Sicily," except instead of the heart shape being there, there was a picture of the island of Sicily, which I suppose could look like a smushed, stretched-out heart if you look hard enough :)  I asked one of the bartenders about the shirts and he returned a minute later with two of them in his hand, as a gift for me :)  And that was just one of three (material) gifts I received during my time in Sicily!  When I bought some souvenirs in Palermo they gave me five free postcards, and when I was souvenir-shopping at that cute store in Castellammare the cashier took 5 euros off my bill.  I love Sicilians! :)

          After we went shopping, Carla, Lara and I climbed on some rocks by the marina with a couple of their friends, and as we were hopping from rock to rock, I had one of those moments where as I was talking with my cousins and their friends, since I was understanding and responding to everything, I momentarily forgot that I wasn't speaking my native language!  I know that my competency and fluency in Italian is increasing with each day I spend here, and each conversation I have in the language :)  Guido was still in Palermo until Friday for school, so on Thursday night I went out again with Bruno and his friends, this time to a dance club that was right on the beach!  Of course, about 90% of the songs we were dancing to were in English, and I was asked to translate the main choruses of a lot of the songs. I had so much fun!

          Saturday, July 9 was my last full day in Sicily, and just thinking about that fact made me teary when we were out on the boat :( Lara and I were taking a break from baking in the sun and decided to relax in the interior of the boat while listening to some music, and one of the songs was "The Scientist" by Coldplay.  The lyrics to this song say, "It's such a shame for us to part... oh, take me back to the start."  You could say I shed a tear or two :(  But for the rest of the day I just remembered how blessed I was to be able to be in Sicily with my family here, and there was no reason to be sad about that :)  That evening, before we left for Giacomo and Angela's to go have dinner, Lara came to me with a small rainbow-colored string bracelet that was identical to one she and Guido both wore, and told me that they were popular in Castellammare for close friends and family to wear identical ones, much like a friendship bracelet in America.  They each have about five of them that they share with friends of theirs, and I was honored that they wanted me to have the same one as them :)  Lara told me, in English, to remember her whenever I look at the bracelet.  She has had some of hers on for 5+ years without taking them off, and I intend to keep my bracelet on for just as long, if not longer :)

          We had dinner at Giacomo and Angela's that night (my cousins' grandparents, who are my nonna Jane's first cousin and his wife) and on this evening we were joined by our cousin Giuliano, another of the Sicilian cousins I had been in contact with for a year and a half and had been waiting to meet!  He was at his university until Saturday afternoon/evening, and he had been telling me all week how much he wanted to be done with school so he could come down to Sicily and see me :)  His parents were there too; his mother Mimma is my mom's second cousin and they have met once, when Mimma came to America when she and my mom were both about 13-14 years old.  As I was sitting at the outdoor dinner table with five of my Sicilian cousins and several aunts and uncles, I just took a moment to think about how great of an experience this whole week was.  I was sitting at the same table as my extended family, in another country, some of whom I didn't even know existed 12-18 months ago.  This experience is undoubtably one of the best things to ever happen to me.  Giacomo kept raving about how I looked so Castellammarese, and I just responded by reminding him that I am Castellammarese!  :)  Everybody also raved about how tan I had gotten since the time I arrived in Castellammare - I have to say, I haven't been as tan as I am now in years, if ever!

                                                                  Giuliano and me :)

          After dinner, Guido and I went out with some of his friends for my last night in Sicily.  I introduced my cousin and his friend Alessio to a drink consisting of just limoncello and Sprite, which my friend Maria and I had tried at a restaurant back in Siena last month.  I was certain it had to be a popular Italian drink, because they love their limoncello, so how could they have never tried it with Sprite?  Well, not only had neither Guido nor Alessio ever tried it, but they had never even heard of the combination before, so I convinced them to try it Saturday night :)  It was a great last night in Sicily; I spent a lot of time talking to my cousin's friends Ignazio and Antonio, and Ignazio told me how great he thought it was that I speak Italian, since most Americans who come to Italy just speak English everywhere they go and don't even try to use Italian.  Again, I was following and comprehending everything very well, and wasn't even taking a few seconds to think about how to respond, what words to say, in what order, what tense, etc.  They were starting to roll right off my tongue!  I want to say I'm at the beginning stages of fluency :)  And I still have six more weeks of classes to go here in Italy!!!

          On the morning of Sunday, July 10, the day of my flight, I awoke at about 9:00 am to say good-bye to Lara, Rosalia and Gaspare, who were going out for the day.  I thanked them for their generous hospitality, and told them that when (not if, never if) they want to come to America, they will surely have a place to stay and be treated just as well as I was here in Castellammare :)  I went back to bed for a couple of hours and when I woke up again and started to pack, I noticed a piece of paper lying in my suitcase.  It was from Lara, and it was a note telling me how much she loved me, to remember her whenever I looked at the note, and to not say good-bye but say hello.  I burst into tears right then and have done the same every time I've read the note since then.  My entire family is so amazing, those from Italy all the way to America, and I couldn't ask for better people in my life :)

                                                                  Lara, me and Carla :)

          Guido drove me to the airport in Palermo so I could catch my 3:10 pm flight to Bergamo, a city about 30 minutes outside of Milan.  I said good-bye to him in the parking lot and he promised me that we would see each other in America, and I promised him we would also see each other again in Sicily, since I am 100% certain I will be back, next time certainly with my mom and sister :)  My flight this time was a little late, which I let my cousin Luca know before the plane took off, since he was picking me up at the Bergamo airport and taking me back to Milan, where he lives and where I will be studying for the next three weeks.  How perfectly convenient is it that I should have a family member in the very city where I am taking classes?  Again, I'm fairly certain my great-grandpa Luca had something to do with it :)  Since my cousin Luca got to the airport in order to be there for my original arrival time, I saw him immediately after I exited the baggage claim area.  I hadn't even been with Luca for five minutes when his cell phone rang and it was his grandfather, Giacomo, calling to make sure Luca had found me okay at the airport :)  After we hung up with Giacomo, Luca let me know that his grandfather had called him the night before to remind him that I would be arriving in Bergamo at such-and-such a time, and gave him a description of what I looked like, which were all things Luca obviously already knew.  I found it very sweet that Giacomo felt the need to call his grandson to make sure that I would find my way to Milan okay :)

          Luca brought me to his apartment in Milan, where I have stayed the last two nights.  I have my own apartment in a student residence that I am going to check out later today after class, especially since Luca has to go out of town for work on Wednesday.  Anyways, I was starving when I got off the plane, so after we unloaded all of my stuff Luca took me to a place to get an apperitivo, where all you pay for is your drink and then you get an all-you-can-eat buffet for free.  I had five plates of food.  They were small, but still - I was that hungry!  While we were dining and talking with each other, Luca realized that he had yet to say something in Italian that I didn't comprehend or didn't recognize.  From that point on he gave me words he knew the English translation for (he lived in Ireland for a year - not fair) and asked me for the Italian word for it, and I would give him Italian words that I knew and ask him for the English translation.  The first thing he pointed to was the straw in my drink, which I had actually realized myself minutes earlier that I didn't know the Italian word for... but I do now!  Canuccia :)  I decided to try out the one vocabulary word Guido had the most difficulty remembering - the English word for panna (whipped cream).  This stumped Luca as well!  I think we ended the game deciding it was a tie... but I'm bound and determined to beat him later on! :)

          He took me to see Milan's Duomo and the Galleria after dinner; the Duomo was stunning and the Galleria was oozing with places to shop!  It was about 10 at night so all the stores were closing, but I will definitely be coming back at some point to do some shopping :)  On Monday, July 11, I had to be at the university for my placement test at 9:30, and Luca had given me directions regarding which underground metro route to take to get to the university the night before, and it ended up being very easy to find.  It was here that I saw Maria, Alvaro and Haley again (my friends from my university back home that I'm taking the classes with); they had arrived in Milan a week earlier while I was on vacation in Sicily.  By the time we had finished both the written and oral portions of the exam we were starving, so I went to get something to eat with Maria, her boyfriend Ryan (he's here visiting her for a couple weeks), and a girl from England named Nieve (no idea if I spelled that right) who will be in our class.  We ended up spending the entire day walking around the city, getting lost, finding our way, and taking the metro about a gazillion times.

          I'm about to leave for class now!  Hope you enjoyed this novel of a blog post :)  Thanks for reading!

Chloe

Monday, July 4, 2011

Right Back Where We Started From :)

           Where my great-grandfather started from, that is :) I am spending this week on the beautiful island of Sicily, in the town of Castellammare del Golfo, where my great-grandfather Luca Fontana grew up and where many of my relatives from that side of the family still live. The picture in the background of my blog is a photo of Castellammare.  I arrived at the Palermo airport on the night of Friday, July 1, after spending the day with Maria, Alvaro and Tony in the Tuscan towns of San Gimignano and Pisa.  We got to see some great scenery in San Gimignano and of course, the famous leaning tower in Pisa!  My flight to Palermo left from Pisa so I said good-bye to everybody there and waited ever so impatiently to board my flight to Sicily at last :)

          There was a bus at the airport that took us from the gate in the actual building to our plane a couple hundred feet away, instead of the plane just being right up against the gate like in America (nor were there assigned seats  on the plane, either).  It wasn't long after we boarded the plane that we started moving, and when the plane finally gunned it down the runway and took off, all I could think about was my great-grandpa Luca and the fact that out of his almost 40 descendants, I am the third one of us to pay a visit to his hometown.  A visit to Castellammare del Golfo has always been towards the tippy-top of my bucket list, and the fact that it was so close was almost unbelievable!  When we were in the sky I saw the most beautiful sunset I had ever seen in my life just behind the clouds, which I'm sure great-grandpa Luca had something to do with :)

          It only took us about an hour to land, which felt like the quickest flight in the world especially compared to the 9-hour one I took to get to Europe a month ago.  As we were approaching Sicily I looked out the window to discover that I could see the beautiful blue water underneath us perfectly, and just sat there staring at it until we descended.  Almost as soon as I saw land we had touched down onto it, and right when the wheels hit the ground, it hit me like a ton of bricks - I was actually in Sicily!

          The anticipation I was feeling about seeing my cousins Guido and Lara at the airport was unlike any other kind of excitement I had ever felt before!  I was especially anxious because I had never met them before, and because I had to turn off the English switch in my head and ensure that my high level of excitement wouldn't result in me forgetting how to speak Italian completely :) I waited for my cousins at the baggage claim, and before I knew it, they were just a few feet away from me, calling my name!  And as it turns out, once we started talking with each other, instead of being so excited that I forgot the words, I was so excited that I was talking a mile a minute and finding words a lot easier than I ever had before!

          On the ride home from the Palermo airport to Castellammare del Golfo, the topics of conversation included our family tree [they are my third cousins; our mothers are second cousins; my grandmother and their grandfather are first cousins; and our great-grandfathers were brothers], and the differences between American and Italian music, cities, schools etc.  After I told them that I needed to speak Italian and only Italian during my stay in Sicily, Guido and I decided that I would speak Italian to him and whenever possible he would respond in English to me and we would correct each other accordingly :)  It is mandatory to take English as a foreign language in the schools in Castellammare so Guido and Lara have both studied it in school and they knew what to say to hold a conversation in English.  Guido and Lara's parents (Rosalia and Gaspare) were surprised when I told them I had only been studying Italian for the past two years and told me that my pronunciation and tone when I speak their language was perfect, which I was really happy to hear!  And Guido always jokes that I speak Italian better than he does :)  I know I still have a ways to go before I can say that I'm fluent, but if native Italian speakers tell me I speak it very well, I must be doing something right!

          At dinner that night Lara and I were explaining to her parents about how we were all connected, and I thought it was so cool that the younger generation was giving the breakdown of the family tree to the older generation.  If you didn't already know, I got in touch with these two cousins and four others through Facebook a year and a half ago, after typing in the name of the one Sicilian cousin whose name my mom could remember (my cousin Carla) and messaging the only girl on Facebook with the same name, we discovered that we were in fact related!  We also talked about languages and Guido mentioned that all the English teachers he has had have been from England, not America, and I told him that I already knew that because I could hear a slight British accent in his voice when he spoke English :)

          On Saturday morning we took the family's boat out to Scopello, which was BEAUTIFUL.  Gaspare told me that he had just recently bought this boat and that our boat ride Saturday morning was the first one he had undertaken with his new boat.  The water was a light blue color and felt amazing.  My cousins had a bunch of those underwater masks that you can put on and look at all the fish under the water, which is exactly what we did :)  On the shore of where we were in Scopello, Guido pointed out a building to me and told me that's where the last scene of Ocean's Twelve was filmed.  After coming home and freshening up, my cousins decided to take me to this place called Segesta, which is a 2000+ year-old archaeological site and former Greek theater.  We picked up two of Guido's friends on the way there (Nino and Alessandra), who apparently had never been to Segesta before, and after we had seen the old temple and stage and Nino and Alessandra were craning their necks and ooh-ing and ahh-ing over every detail, Guido remarked that they were acting even more touristy than me when we there!  Haha :)

          Also on Saturday, Guido and Lara took me to their grandfather's store called Fontana Mobili (a furniture store) and I got to meet their grandfather Giacomo Fontana, who is my grandmother Jane Fontana Finch's first cousin.  We talked even more about the family tree, about my nonna Jane and her siblings, and about when my uncles Tommy and Greg both visited Castellammare del Golfo.  He was very happy to see me (and vice versa), and as we were leaving he stood at the door looking after us until we had disappeared down the street :)

          That night I went out with Guido and his friends to a hangout spot that in my opinion was the Sicilian version of a New Jersey boardwalk.  Guido pointed out a hotel at the end of the boardwalk and told me that's where George Clooney and the Ocean's Twelve actors stayed while they were here filming the movie.  Guido's friends were all very nice and welcoming to me, and when we would go for walks along the boardwalk in a big group they would always make sure that they and I both knew where my cousin was so that I wouldn't get lost in the shuffle.  At one point Guido thought he had lost me when in reality we had just been standing back to back talking to different people, and he was very relieved when he realized I wasn't actually lost.  Haha it was sweet :)

          At the second place we went to that night, Guido's friend Renata was talking to a guy from London named Leon who was on vacation in Castellammare, and I didn't realize how much I had missed hearing native-spoken English until I heard him talk!  Don't get me wrong, I love every minute of being in Italy and hearing nothing but Italian, it was just rather refreshing to hear my native language again and give my brain a little bit of a break :)  I think he was relieved to meet me as well, because he didn't speak any Italian and Renata didn't speak any English, so Guido and I acted as translators.  Leon joined all of us at the beach the following day (Sunday) and we once again acted as translators, while this time trying to teach Leon and Renata a bit of the other's language :)

          We traveled from the beach to Giacomo and Angela's house by motorino (motor scooter), which was my first time riding one!  Ever since I got to Italy I have been wanting to ride one, so I was so excited!  When we arrived at Giacomo and Angela's house I was thrilled to finally meet my cousins Carla and Bruno, along with their mother Gabriella, uncle Vincenzo, and Giacomo and Angela, of course.  We had a lunch that consisted of six plates altogether - salad, antipasti, pasta, fish, fruit and gelato.  Normally I don't care for fish, but I mentioned the other day that I had tried swordfish once and liked it, so that's what they made for lunch :)

          I got a lot of great pictures and video of all the family as well!  This one in particular is one of my favorite ones of the day; probably because it consists mostly of me speaking Italian and my cousins speaking English - and Lara and I both getting corrected :)  Be sure to check out the spectacular view from Giacomo and Angela's house, and Lara whispering "Come si dice pomeriggio?" (How do you say 'afternoon'?) at 1:56 :)




Off to the beach with my cousins now!  Ciao :)


Chloe