Thursday, August 18, 2011

Verona, Venice, and a Very Hard Good-bye


          As I write this it is officially midnight on Wednesday night, making it Thursday, August 18, on this, my last week in Italy.  That means that tomorrow, on Friday, August 19, I will be leaving Gargnano on a bus headed to Brescia, then a train headed to Milan, then a train headed to Zurich, Switzerland with Maria and Alvaro, wait about ten hours for our plane (I'm not even talking about the actual flight yet... just waiting at the airport), then finally, we'll board our ten-hour plane from Zurich to Atlanta.  It's going to take us about a full day and a half to get from where we are in Gargnano back to Atlanta, then once we get to Atlanta we'll all eventually head back to school in Milledgeville.

          I've been having the most amazing time here in Gargnano!  As I talked about in my last post, I have classmates and new friends from all over the world, and our professors are so friendly and they've actually become our good friends as well.  The environment of the classes and program here in Gargnano is definitely my favorite out of all of the ones we've participated in (Siena, Milan and Gargnano) because here it's nothing short of full immersion - we're speaking Italian all the time (I've actually had a few moments where I couldn't remember the English word or expression for what I was saying in Italian).  Also, after our classes in Siena and Milan got out we would all part ways, but here in Gargnano we're living with each other and enjoying all of our meals together.  There's really not an opportunity to do anything else other than speak Italian, mingle with friends who love this language and culture as much as I do, and explore this beautiful town and its shops, beaches, and even a limonaio - that's the place where they grow lemons to make delicious things like limoncello - we got to take a tour of one this week and sample some as well!

          On Friday, August 12, I took a trip with the rest of the students and professors to Verona, Italy, which is a northern Italian town that a certain British playwright made famous with his story about those two star-crossed lovers :)  While we there we got to go to la casa di Giulietta, saw the balcony, and at night we all met up at the Arena di Verona, where we saw an opera by the name of Nabucco that we had been learning about in our culture class the week before.  I was obsessing about recharging my camera battery for at least a day or two before we left, and I finally charged it the night before... however, I failed to take the battery out of the charger and put it into my camera before we left.  Luckily, my friends took some pictures and gave them to me :)
Seeing Verona from a bird's-eye-view.  I'm kind of obsessed with my hair in this picture (I'm on the left), natural highlights I didn't even know I had! :)

          Maria and I absolutely wanted to go to Venice while we were here in northern Italy, so this past weekend we decided to do just that!  It was only about a one-hour bus trip from Gargnano to Brescia and then a two-hour train ride from Brescia to Venice.  After we exited the train station we made our way to our hotel, of course while stopping to ask for directions a few times along the way.  We noticed that absolutely no one was speaking to us in English anymore when we stopped to talk to people or ask them for directions!  When we first got to Italy almost every Italian we came in contact with would switch to English when we would talk, since I'm sure they could tell we weren't from Italy, but now - even if they can still tell we're not native Italians - we must be talking with more fluency and confidence than before, since no one feels like they have to use the universal traveling language :) Win!

          You know that feeling when you arrive somewhere, look around you, and everything seems so beautiful and unreal that you feel fully convinced that you're off asleep somewhere and dreaming the whole thing?  Maybe, but only if you've been to Venice, Italy :)  At one point Maria was fully convinced that she was off in a coma somewhere, because none of the scenery around her seemed like it could possibly be real.  But it was!  We’ve been in Italy for two and a half months already, but no place felt more like the Italy you dream about than Venice.  The area of the city when we got off the train from Brescia just looked like any other city in the world, but after we took the ten-minute train ride across the bridge and got off, we finally saw the Venice we had always seen in pictures and movies for as long as we can remember.  Gondolas, gondolas, and more gondolas!  The doors of this train station led right out to Piazzale Roma, where it's impossible to miss the canals and gondolas galore :)  When I had my first gondola sighting (pictured below!), I literally gasped, yelled "GONDOLAS!", whipped out my camera and ran over to the edge of the canal to snap a picture :)


My first gondola sighting!

Me in front of the canal outside of Piazzale Roma in Venice

I took this picture in Venice (again, canal by Piazzale Roma) and my incredibly talented sister  Maddie drew the below picture based on this one!

Maddie's rendering of Venice :)


          In case I haven't mentioned, this week (not this coming one, but the week that we're in right now) is the first week of classes for my university in Milledgeville.  But, obviously, some prior engagements kept Maria, Alvaro, Haley and I from attending class there for the first week, and this was all Maria and I could think and talk about while we were walking over Venetian bridges and having lunch alongside a canal, gondolas passing by every few minutes.  It was the day before school started at GCSU, and here we were halfway around the world in Venice, Italy.  "Those suckers we call friends are in Milledgeville right now!" Maria would say :)
This was where we ate lunch.  Unreal!

There is no place in the entire world like Venice...

          What's nice about Venice and what makes it so unique is that non è qualsiasi monumento (the Italian way to say "it isn't any monument" appeared in my head before the English way as I was typing just now...) that makes Venice what it is and what it's famous for, but just the simplicity and beauty and history around you.  Granted, there is the big Piazza di San Marco, where there are churches and towers and a big square full of tourists, but I enjoyed just walking through the quainter parts of the city and seeing the canals, old buildings and boats more.  Plus, believe it or not, it was less touristy and less crowded around these parts of town.  I never got over how cool it was to constantly turn my head and see water passing through two buildings, where in every other city in the world there would have been a road (ci sarebbe stata una strada).  I didn't see a single car in the entirety of Venice; only boats, gondolas, and people on foot :)  Che bella!


          I can't believe my time in Italy is almost over.  I am ready to be home (three months is a long time to spend away from home in any circumstance, especially when it's your first time out of the country!), but I can't get used to the fact that I will now begin to refer to my Italy trip and experiences here in the past tense.  I have been planning for this trip my entire first two years of college, and now it's almost over.  I realized the other day that I have really never given a single thought as to what I will do or what will happen in my life on and after August 21, at least for the rest of my college years.  For at least the last three months I haven't been able to see past August 20.  It's been Italy Italy Italy on my mind all the time, but what about after Italy?  I have absolutely no idea.  I also wanted to note how incredibly blessed I feel to be here.  The way that the program worked out, how we were able to participate in three Italian language programs here without any of them overlapping, the fact that I go to a school that offers an amazing opportunity like this (and one that offers Italian in the first place, too!), the fact that this is the first year that GCSU has offered 12 credits through the Italian study abroad program invece di (instead of) the 9 it offered every year before me, and how participating in this program gave me the 24 credits I need for the graduate program I’ve been looking at… and the fact that I was somehow given a week off from all of my intensive schooling here in which I was able to head south and meet my recently-found relatives in Sicily … it's just all so amazing and worked out way too perfectly for any of it to be a coincidence :)

          Also, the program in Gargnano in particular (I just can't stop singing the praises of this town and our wonderful professors and directors!), is particularly special to me because none of the professors, directors or guest speakers actually live here in Gargnano, they're all just staying here for three weeks like us.  I know they're being paid to be here, but I also assume they would only leave their family and friends behind wherever they live (and work during the month of August, when just about every other Italian is on vacation) if they truly, geniunely care about us and wanted to help us develop and expand our Italian language proficiency.  That just means so much to me :)

          The one person I need to thank the most for my being able to be here, however is my mother.  She didn’t have to let me come here.  She could have said, “No, it doesn’t technically help with your major,” or “No, it costs too much.”  But she didn’t.  She never said any of that.  Of course, it cost money – I received various types of scholarships, though; tuition and a teacher assistantship from GCSU, borse di studi [scholarships] from the universities here in Italy, etc. – plus I managed to save up over $1,500 on my own :)  And no, it doesn’t exactly match up with my program of study as a French major.  By all definition, with that as my major I probably should have been studying French somewhere this summer.  But my mom knew that I wouldn’t have been able to get to where I want and need to be with Italian without traveling here and enrolling in this program, and it means the world to me that she not only knew how important this opportunity was for me, but that it was important to her too :)  I love you Mommy!  Thank you so much.  I am forever grateful <3

          Making the decision to start taking Italian my freshman year of college was one of the best decisions I've ever made.  It was a pretty late one too; I emailed our Italian professor Tony two weeks before school started that year and asked if he could make a last-minute seat in his class for me.  If I hadn't done so, I literally wouldn't be where I am today, physically, mentally, linguistically, etc.  After I return to the United States from my study abroad experience, I will have 24 Italian credits under my belt, which, as I've mentioned before, is just the right amount required to enroll in the graduate program I'm looking at for a Masters in Italian, and plenty enough to earn teacher certification as well, which is my ultimate goal :)  When I first started taking Italian freshman year, and even up until last December or so, I saw the classes as something I had always wanted to take but didn't anticipate that they would turn into the center of my focus as a student and affect my career choice as much as they have.  But I guess that's to be expected of someone who's always been a language buff (I studied both French and Spanish in high school; they were always my favorite subjects) and who also comes from a family bursting at the seams with Italian people and culture.  Of course, one day, I would learn and become proficient in Italian.  It just makes sense :)

          A volte 
(there goes the Italian again, popping into my head before the English translation "Sometimes"...) I have fooled myself into thinking that this will be my last Italian class for a while, last real exposure to the language for a while, and that once I return to the United States my knowledge will diminish a causa del fatto che (because of the fact that) I will not be exposed to the language there as much there as I am here.  Whenever I begin to think in that way, I quickly remind myself that the only way I would ever be able to “lose” my Italian is if I, Chloe Carpenter, let myself do so.  Who says that just because I won’t be taking any more undergraduate Italian classes for credit that I have to stop learning and being exposed to the language?  (The fact that I’ve taken all the Italian language classes possible for an undergraduate also blows my mind; I’m so proud of myself and so incredibly grateful to have had the opportunity :
)
         
          When I really think about it, I realize that I have so many resources at my disposal to keep me maintaining the language as a big part of my life when I get back.  Though I’ve taken all of GCSU’s Italian classes for credit already, there’s nothing stopping me from going back and sitting in on one of the classes each semester in order to keep myself practicing; I’ll even take the tests again, even if not for a grade!  I’m also going to be a French and Italian tutor in the Foreign Language Lab starting this semester, where I will undoubtedly use both languages often.  I have two friends at GCSU who are taking Italian this semester and both of them want my help with the class, and another who wants me to teach her enough Italian outside of class so that she can try and get into Italian 2 next semester.  Since I have been in Italy I have also become the proud owner of several books and magazines in Italian, an Italian-French dictionary, as well as an actual dictionary in Italian (already had two Italian-English dictionaries :P), so I will definitely be making time as often as possible to read and study them, as well as watch movies and TV episodes in Italian online, and even just read straight out of my Italian dictionary as if it were a book (come se fosse un libro).  Why would I watch, read, or write in English when I could do it in another language? :)  It’s going to be strange to go back to using English all the time and I’m sad to know that the days of hearing only Italian being spoken outside my window and on the street will soon be over, but that certainly doesn't mean that when I return home my exposure to Italian has to stop :)

          I’ve also wondered if sitting in more French classes than Italian ones for the next couple of years would impede my knowledge of Italian at all, but I think I have a strong enough grasp of the Italian language now that exposure to another won't hinder it.  The two languages are very similar, which can confuse some people when studying them together, but in my experience it’s always helped me rather than hurt me, which I am very thankful for.  Also, whatever I do in French from now on, as far as homework assignments and translations go, I will also do in Italian.  There are plenty of people that know three languages very well if not fluently; that’s been the case for a good number of students here in Gargnano and several foreign language teachers and professors I’ve had throughout my life.  I don’t think I would be wrong in saying that most people who know two languages usually know a third pretty well too, and it’s so exciting to know that I am on my way to being one of those people :)

          There were several times throughout my sophomore year of college when I was seriously considering transferring to a school that had Italian as a major course of study, but after a long period of prayer and self-discovery, it’s been made evident to me that in my case, it isn’t absolutely necessary that I sit in a classroom in order to keep Italian with me and learn more; my passion for the language will help me do that just fine.  (When it comes to French I definitely think I need the classes, because although I love that language as well, my passion for it isn’t as grand as it is for Italian.)  After months of experience in Italy, with the language, and with tanti cugini e amici che parlano l’italiano (several cousins and friends who speak Italian) in Italy and Sicily that I will of course continue to keep in contact with, it will pretty much be impossible for me to not keep Italian in my life :)  It’s not that I even actually think my knowledge of the language would be in jeopardy when I return home, I’m just obsessed with doing everything possible to reach my fullest potential in both Italian and French! :)

          "Whether you think you can or think you can’t, you’re right."  This is one of my favorite quotes and it’s really never been truer to me than it is now.  When I arrived in Italy two and a half months ago, I was confident that I knew enough of the language to get by, maybe a little more.  But I wouldn't have called myself fluent at that time, because I didn't understand every single thing that was said by Italian speakers and on occasion also had some difficulty finding words myself, since my vocabulary wasn’t as broad then.  Now, however, after eleven weeks of classes, hundreds more Italian conversations experienced (and fully understood!) both those from afar and those in which I took part, hundreds more opportunities to speak and practice, and hundreds more words learned, I now believe that at this point in time I can call myself an Italian speaker :)  I may not know every single word there is, but do I really know every single word in English?  It’s all about being able to follow and understand completely what’s going on and play an active role in conversations, and that’s what I can do :)

          After dinner last night (Wednesday, August 17), I stayed long after the rest of the students had gotten up from the table in order to stay and chat with the two guest speakers that are here in Gargnano for our program this week, along with the husband and young children of one of them.  I thought about following the others and getting up when I was finished eating, but with an Italian conversation going on, how was I supposed to pull myself away?  It occurred to me that I would not be getting a whole lot of opportunities like this, if any, starting Saturday, so I seized the day and chatted with them for about half an hour.  The kids asked me to clear up some questions they had about the English language and if their teacher was saying the right word and pronunciation for certain words (“a book” with a short a sound versus “a book” with a long a sound), and when the adults asked me what had made me want to study Italian, I told them how much I've always loved languages and launched into the story of how my great-grandfather came to America from Sicily, how I still have family there, that I went there to visit them last month and also what else I've done and where else I’ve been in Italy the last two and a half months.  They told me that by now I probably know Italy better than they do, and that they were very impressed with how well I speak their language.  Compliments like that never fail to make me smile or boost my level of confidence :)

          I am now on my way to our final conferenza of the program, where the guest speakers lecture on a cultural topic they are proficient in, such as art, theatre, music, history, etc., and then our final dinner as a family, then a going-away festa!  After all of this I will finally get my suitcases together tonight in order to be out of my room by 9am tomorrow morning for our final class/get-together, after which we will have our last lunch and then be on our way back to America via Brescia, Milan, and Zurich.  Don't think this is my last blog entry though, because I'm sure I will still have more experiences to recount, more musings to share, and I get to readjust myself to the American lifestyle, culture and language pretty soon after almost three months of being away from it.  That should be fun :)  Looking forward to it and I hope you are too!  Ciao :)

Sunday, August 7, 2011

Gargnano!

          Finalmente, ho trovato il tempo per scrivere un altro post!  (Finally, I have found the time to write another post!)  It's been a long time since my last one, which was about the last half of the week I spent in Sicily (the first week of July), and since then I have spent three weeks in the city of Milan taking classes, meeting people, and seeing the sights there, and arrived in the town of Gargnano on Lago di Garda, which is about 1.5-2 hours away from Milan, on Monday, August 1.

          Let me just say that after living in the Tuscany region for the entire month of June, taking classes in Siena and taking weekend trips to nearby Cinque Terre, Florence, Rome, San Gimignano, Assisi, Perugia and Pisa, AND after spending ten glorious days in the heart of the Mediterranean with my cousins and family in Sicily, any place that I would go to after that would surely have some tough competition for my affection.  That is the nicest way to explain why I can only describe Milan as a bit of a disappointment (not Lago di Garda though - I'll get to that later).  I'm glad I got the opportunity to go to Milan, but the classes there didn't seem to have any sort of structure or lesson plan, and it wasn't until after we had all taken our placement test that the professors realized that everybody had a different competency and background with the Italian language and that there should probably be more than just two levels.

          Maria and I also had an unfortuantely unpleasant encounter with one of the employees in the university residence who, when we had accidentally left one morning with our key still in our room (ONE time), was downright rude and lectured and yelled at us like we were children.  I had never experienced service like that before, since every other RA or landlord I have ever come across has always been willing to let me into my room when I needed them to, since that is, in fact, their JOB.  For the record, this guy wasn't actually Italian, so don't think I'm talking bad about gli italiani! :)

          Like I mentioned in my last post, I spent my first two days in Milan with my cousin Luca who lives there.  He picked me up from the airport when I arrived there from Sicily and took me to two of the city's biggest sights, the Duomo and the Galleria.  I didn't get to see a whole lot of him for the remainder of the time I was there, since he was working a LOT, but he and his girlfriend Azzurra took me to see the movie Captain America one night, which was great because it was entirely in Italian and I understood just about all of it! :)

          My favorite day/night during my time in Milan was definitely when two of my friends from America, Taylor and Steffi, came to visit.  The two of them spent a couple of weeks traveling around Italy this summer, and happened to stop in Milan during my stay there.  I met up with them on my first Friday in Milan (July 15) after I got out of class.  We took some pictures in front of the Duomo and then headed over to Castello Sforzesco, another touristy location.  It was nice going to these places with tourists, since I had pretty much turned into a Milan resident myself and hadn't gotten the time to do much else other than go about my daily business like the rest of the Milanese people.  When I went to Florence with some friends for the weekend and spent time with my friend Courtney who was studying there, she mentioned how she was glad to have friends come to the city so she could have an excuse - and find time! - to visit all of the touristy places that she hadn't yet gotten to see.  This was exactly how I felt when Steffi and Taylor came to Milan!


                                       Taylor, me and Steffi in front of the Milan Duomo


          We spent the day poking around the city and once it got dark, headed out to experience Milan nightlife.  We met two Turkish students from one of the many universities in Milan who told us about a place called Le Colonne which was a popular place for college-age students to hang out.  We accompanied them (Ezgi and Mehmet) to Le Colonne and there we met new friends from Italy, England, and fellow Americans from New York and New Jersey!  The Italian guys lived there in Milan (though one of them was actually from Sicily, so we bonded over that!), the British guys were there on vacation, and the American guys were architecture grad students who were there studying for a week, and who would then go to Siena to spend a month taking classes there.  Since I myself had just spent a month there, I told them all about the city and gave them recommendations on what to do and see while they're there.

          The Americans, like I mentioned, were from New York and New Jersey so that was yet another thing that we bonded over.  Though I haven't lived in either of those places, I have family in both states and in nearby Connecticut and Massachusetts, have taken many trips up there, and consider the northeast my favorite area of the country.  Anyway, at one point one of the guys, Travis, told me that he was surprised when I told him that we were all from Atlanta because according to him, I looked and seemed like somebody from up north!  I was thrilled to hear that, especially from a northeasterner :)  We then talked about how easy it is to pick out the Americans here in Italy, even just walking past them and without them saying a word.  Travis then told me, "I've had a pretty good eye for figuring out who the Americans are up until now.  I actually never would have pegged you as an American.  I thought you were a native Italian until you told me otherwise."  I was even more thrilled to hear that :)


L-R: Travis (NY), Eric (NJ), Steffi (GA), Luigi (Sicily), me (GA), Diego (Italy), Matt (England), in front: Trevor (NY) and Josh (England)                                                           


          Since I've been in Italy I've had many people ask me where I'm from, and some who try to guess where I'm from before I tell them.  When I was on the bus from Palermo to Castellammare del Golfo in Sicily, I asked one of the other passengers, in Italian, how far we were from the stop for Castellammare, and after answering me, and probably assuming I was a tourist, the guy just up and asked me if I was from Germany.  He is actually one of three people to ask me if I was from there since I've been in Italy.  Another time, when Maria and I were eating at a restaurant in Milan, our waiter (also probably realizing that we were tourists) asked us where we were from, and after we told him the United States he said that he had thought we were from Spain.  Though Maria is Hispanic and speaks Spanish she isn't of Spanish descent (that is, from Spain) so we gathered that it was probably because our Italian professor back in the United States is himself a Spaniard, so we must have said something in Italian to the waiter with a Spanish pronunciation, the way our professor says it.  This waiter was also the third Italian person since I've been here to think I'm from Spain.  How does one person think I'm from Germany and the next think I'm from Spain?  It's crazy!

          The next Sunday (July 24) I went to Lago di Como for the day with my British friend Niamh (pronounced Neeve), which is the same lake on which George Clooney has a house :)  I have no idea what it looks like though so we may or may not have seen it.  We had a lot of fun poking around the town of Como and even got to go out on the lake in a paddleboat :)  During our last week in Milan, the week of July 25-29, I went with Maria, Haley and Niamh and the many other students from our class and other universities in Milan on free visits to the Pinacoteca di Brera, a very famous art gallery in Milan; il Cenacolo, otherwise known as Leonardo da Vinci's Last Supper, the famous depiction of the moment when Jesus announces that one of his twelve apostles would betray him; and also Leonardo's Codice Atlantico (Codex Atlanticus), which showcased over a thousand pages of Leonardo da Vinci's drawings and writings.  Pretty amazing stuff!  We weren't allowed to take pictures of them, though, otherwise I would put some up.  Here's one of me in the paddleboat on Lago di Como though! :)




          On Monday, August 1, Maria, Alvaro, Haley and I packed up and headed to Stazione Centrale, Milan's central train station, where we would be meeting our bus to Gargnano as well as several of our new classmates from all over the world!  Our new classmates and friends are from England, Ireland, Spain, Croatia, Bosnia, Serbia, Switzerland, Poland, Israel, India, China, Japan, Letonia, Mexico, Brazil, Argentina, and there may be some more places I'm forgetting.  Maria, Alvaro, Haley and I are the only students from America.  There is also another girl from Georgia - but the country of Georgia, not the state!  We bonded over the fact that we're both "Georgians" and we extended the invitation to each other to visit the other Georgia :)


Meeting the Gargnano group in Milan!
L-R: Natia (Georgia, the country); Valeria (Switzerland); Alvaro (Peru/USA); Maria & me (USA); Fumiko (Japan); Carlos (Mexico); Menakshi (India); Melisa (Serbia); and Merav (Israel).


          So not only is the town of Gargnano right on Lago di Garda, but so is the building where we are staying!  I shouldn't even call it a building, its name is Palazzo Feltrinelli and palazzo in Italian means "mansion." :)  Our classes are also held in the palazzo, so we just have to walk downstairs to get to class.  All of our meals during the week (which are absolutely delicious) are served to us outside, on the lake, with fabulous service! I'm living in what can only be described as a five-star hotel for three weeks, overlooking the lake, in a beautiful town in northern Italy!  It's absolutely incredible :)


                                                   Haley and I walking up to the palazzo


This is where we are served lunch and dinner every day!

          Our classes are great, and our teachers are so friendly!  In the mornings we have three and half hours of language classes, from 9 am - 12:50 with a twenty minute break at 11, then lunch, then a few hours of free time, then from 5:30-7:30 we have our culture classes, with a ten-minute break at 6:20.  I really like the culture class; it's very interesting and engaging!  It's a lot like the American culture class I took last semester at my home university, except it's all about Italian culture and entirely in Italian.  It makes me feel like I'm a real Italian student at a university in Italy just going to class :)

          On Saturday (August 6), we spent the day in the mountains of Gargnano (which are a part of the Alps), taking a car halfway up and then climbing up the rest of the mountain the old-fashioned way.  When we descended the mountain we had lunch with the mayor of Gargnano, who had greeted us all when we first stepped off the bus in his town last Monday, and after lunch, a local DJ named Davide, who we've become friends with, played the guitar for us while we all sang along to the songs in Italian, English and Spanish that he was playing :)

                                       View of Gargnano from the mountain we climbed


Me, Maria, Alvaro and Haley and the wine our teachers gave us after class.
Only in Italy :)

Me and il Sindaco di Gargnano (the Mayor of Gargnano), Gianfranco Scarpetta!